Reviews
The Stables maintains a winning streak
Review From Cheshire Life Magazine, June 2004
I can't think of a restaurant at a racecourse in the UK which has an atmosphere as redolent of the turf as the Stables Restaurant and Bar at Soughton Hall, near Northop, on the A5119, off the A55. I fell for the place long ago when we made it North Wales restaurant of the year 1998-99 and it has maintained it's winning streak in the food and drink form ever since.
It is a captivating place, created by the conversion of the stable block of the grandiose hall. Architecturally the stables are in themselves impressive, crowned by one of those weathervane-topped clock towers that you'll find at all the best equine accommodation. Inside it is all beams, boards and barrels with a bar on the ground floor and a restuarant upstairs where a wine club flourishes and an open kitchen welcomes you with a benevolent glow. This is, deservedly, a busy successful place and the names of the kitchen staff on duty and the waiting staff (stewards) provide a lengthy list of "runners" on one of the many blackboards.
Upstairs the tables bear the names of racecourses, downstairs of racehorses. I sat at Arkle, between Desert Orchid and Best Mate. There is a distinguished list of real ales and wines galore. The racing linkage is remorseless and extends to a menu divided into punters' and owners' and trainers' starters and mains, the owners and trainers being offered the more gourmet dishes. There is an unimaginatively named "Vegetarian healthy option". I suppose any reference to "what horses eat" would be tactless. And this is certainly not food for jockeys watching their weight. Portions are liberal.
I started with a robust venison and duck pate in smoky bacon served with toasted authentic brioche and plum chutney (£5.50). Then I had the fish and chips, from the punter's mains but certainly I felt it fair to be set before the most distinguished owner. For as well as a battered fillet of cod it comprised of balls of monkfish, not usually found in company with mushy peas. This came with a bowl of good, chunky tartare sauce (£10.75). The menu played the field also including beef, lamb, pork, duck, salmon and a variety of sausages.
There was an interesting selection of puds with unusual ices. At the next table the brulee was being much enjoyed but as a racing man I know that having to declare to carry overweight is undesirable so I finished with an espresso.
The place is a classic winner.